CHO OYU (8201m)

CHO OYU (8201m)

Nepal

TBA          
Trip leader default

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Mt. Cho Oyu (8,201m) is the 6th highest mountain in the world. It stands to the west of Mt.Everest along the Nepal -Tibet(China) border. The peak meaning 'Turquoise Goddess' in Tibetan has its south - west ridge on the Nepal side and the north - west ridge on the Tibet side. Mt. Cho Oyu's south - west ridge is technically very challenging and has remained unclimbed . The approach to the peak from Tibet, unlike Nepal, is not technically demanding and can be undertaken with minimum risk. It is known among climbers to be the easiest of the 8000m peaks because of its moderate slopes, absence of objective dangers and ease of access. Most climbers like to take this up as their initiation into the 8000m before attempting Everest. The expedition begins at Kathmandu and after the permit formalities, we take the exciting drive through the Kodari border to Tibet, reaching Nyalam on the first day. We spend an extra night at Nyalam, relaxing and hiking up small hills as we acclimatize. Next day, we travel overland through fantastic plateaus and high passes to Tingri (4,300m) with a stop at the Buddhist monastery around a sacred cave built by Milarepa. As we are about to touch Tingri, we get magnificent views of Mt.Everest, Mt.Makalu, Mt.Cho Oyu and Mt.Gyan Kung. With an army base at its rear, Tingri is made of old-style mud and stone buildings. It serves as a base to the Tibetan nomads in this desolate part of the plateau. After touching the Chinese base camp, we rest adequately, acclimatize and prepare ourselves before we ascend towards advance base camp at 5,700m. Crossing through steep moraines, we establish Camp-I at 6,400m, which takes around 4-6 hours depending on weather conditions and overall health of the group. We traverse a ridge and ascend a 50m headwall to touch Camp-II at 7,000m - a hard day of 6-7hours. Our team of strong and experienced Sherpas fix rope as required. We establish Camp-III on the north-west face at 7,500m and head out for our summit bid the following day. We move up and down the mountain several times to acclimatize and stock up higher camps depending on everyone’s fitness. The true summit lies at the far end of the high snow field which requires an extra push to reach. Though the summit day is long and arduous, it's definitely worth the prize; An 8000er!!

Itinerary

Show Detailed Itinerary
We finalise the last minute paperwork for the permits & the Chinese Visa. The trip leader would be checking everyone’s gear, missing items if any can be purchased in Kathmandu.
Kodari is about 5-6 hrs drive from Kathmandu, we cross the Friendship Bridge to get into Tibet and stay at Zhangmu
We go through the customs at Zhangmu and board the land cruisers to drive another 2-3 hrs to get to Nyalam.
We do some light walks near Nyalam, the idea is to gain some altitude and then come down to sleep at Nyalam. It is important to slowly get used to the increasing altitude and climbers would be asked to take it easy.
We drive over Thang La (5200m) and drive along the Tibetan highway which offers great views of snow capped Himalayan peaks including Mt Everest.
We complete the drive on reaching the Chinese Base Camp. Rest in the afternoon.
Short hike near base camp, we come back to camp for lunch. In the afternoon we organize our gear & expedition loads to be carried up by the yaks.
The first few days at Advanced Base Camp are used to make acclimatization hikes to the lower reaches of the West Ridge. While we do our acclimatization hikes our Sherpa team would be working hard to set up Camp I (6400m) on top the West Ridge and subsequently establish Camp 2 (7000m) and Camp 3 (7400m). We'll move up and down the mountain a multiple times to stock the higher camps and to enhance our. After setting up Camp 3, the team rests for a few days at Advanced Base Camp before going for the summit bid. Our summit attempt begins at midnight from Camp 3. We will climb with supplemental oxygen on summit day and each climbing member would have a personal climbing Sherpa who would be your personal climbing partner on the summit attempt. Your personal Sherpa will also be available to help carry your personal gear to the higher camps. Since most climbers now use supplement oxygen on the summit attempt, it has become common for climbers to sleep at camp 2 and attempt the summit from there. It is easier to sleep at Camp 2 & with supplement oxygen getting up to Camp 3 is relatively easy. We ascend the West Face through a rock band & through snow slopes of 25° to 40° to reach the West Ridge. The west ridge leads to the large summit plateau at just about 8000m. From here it is about an hours walk to get the true summit. As we walk this high plateau we have some really spectacular views of Ama Dablam, Lhitse, Nuptse, Gaurishankar & Everest. It takes about 8-10 hrs to get to the summit from Camp 2 (6-8 hrs if you started from Camp 3). After reaching the summit, our team will descend to Camp 2 & then down to the ABC the following day.
This day-to-day schedule should be taken only as a general guide. It is not possible to guarantee that any of our trips will run exactly according to the proposed itinerary as a variety of factors, including adverse weather conditions, difficulties with transportation, health of climbers can lead to enforced changes. The expedition leader will do his best to ensure that the trip runs as per plan but an easy going nature would be appreciated. We advise that you do not plan any important work immediately on your return and have a flight ticket which is changeable. It is also advised to have an extra day in Kathmandu on your return, which could act also act as a buffer day.

Trip Cost

9,88,000 / 15300  

START POINT TO END POINT , TWIN SHARING

Payment Schedule

₹2,50,000 / $4000 - Booking Amount

TRIP COST INCLUDES
  • - 5 nights at 3 star standard hotels in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast
  • - Mt. Cho Oyu expedition permit fee
  • - Tibet Visa and Travel permit fee
  • - Liaison officer and Interpreter
  • - Full board hotel on route to Tibet side Zhangmu, Nyalam and Tingri (bed and breakfast, Lunch, dinner)
  • - During climbing period full board meals & high altitude food
  • - Emergency Oxygen, Mask and regulator for Advance Base Camp
  • - Yaks for luggage transportation as required
  • - Expert Nepalese expedition crew including Cook, Climbing Sherpas, ABC guide
  • - Mountaineering gear till ABC provided; crew gets all expedition facilities from our office itself
  • - Tent accommodation between at Base Camp and Advance Base Camp - 1 tent between 2 climbers(North Face or similar quality), Kitchen tent, Dining tent, Table, Chairs, Toilet tent, Mess tent and shower tent
  • - Transportation: Kathmandu to Zhangmu to Chinese Base Camp and back: Mini bus/Jeep for the members, a truck for luggage and climbing equipment & Insurance for Nepalese crew
  • - Tibet border custom clearance for expeditions equipment & food
  • - First Aid kit
  • - Nepal & Tibet government taxes
  • - Office service charge
  • - 2 bottles of oxygen per member with mask regulator
  • - 1 professional climbing Sherpa for every member during expedition all the way to summit and back
  • - Sherpa summit bonus
  • - Tibet visa fees
TRIP COST EXCLUDES
  • - International air travel to and from Kathmandu
  • - International departure tax
  • - Team members’ personal climbing equipment
  • - Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
  • - Laundry, postage, telephone calls and all other items of personal nature
  • - Medical and rescue insurance
  • - Bar Bills and beverage
  • - Rescue Jeep if used
  • - Satellite phone service
  • - Extra Services
  • - Tips for staffs

What to expect

 

The highest difficulty rating for some of the most difficult mountains in the world. Any 8000m peak would come under the category of an 'Extreme Climb'. Expeditions to 8000m peaks will need a minimum of 50 days. One needs to have a lot of climbing experience and should have climbed atleast one 7000m mountain and a few 6000m mountains. You need to be in the best shape of your life to be attempting this climb. High commitment level is mandatory and one should spend atleast 8-10 months to physically & mentally prepare for such climbs. Normally on these climbs the supplement oxygen also comes into play.

 

A fierce determination and a burning desire to climb the mountain are the essential pre-requisites for joining this expedition. One must have done a few high altitude treks and must have climbed some glaciated peaks above 6000m. One needs to be familiar with walking in snow and ice and must have a good standard of fitness. You should be familiar with Ice Axe arrest and crampon skills, the use of ascenders (jumar) and descenders, and how to use your particular harness.

You have full support till base camp which means you only carry a back pack till BC. We encourage climbers to carry a little more weight than just a back pack as it helps higher up on the climb but it is optional.  Above base camp the sherpa team puts all the fixed ropes and hauls all the common gear - food, fuel, tents etc
 

All climbers are expected to carry all their personal gear with them - climbing eqpt/ clothing/ sleeping bag/ mattress etc. We also do a couple of load ferries on the way up. On the way down we normally bring it all in one go. 
 

At high camps - Food & water is prepared by the guides & sherpa team. If someone wants to help with shoveling snow/ pitching tents etc he/ she is welcome but again it is optional. 

 

Having very high fitness levels is essential and climbers would need to train considerably for these climbs.

Besides being physically fit and having the climbing skills, you need to have the proper attitude and

mental discipline. You will need to be willing to work hard day after day, with no comforts. You may

need to dig deep into your reserves after a long day of climbing in bad weather to help set up camp,

help a team member. organise your tent, change into dry clothes and be ready for another such day.

We would be melting snow to make water at high camps (5-6 days) and will have simple food to

survive on.

Apart from the mental strength having a positive attitude and the ability to get along well with

strangers in stressful situations is very important. You would be sharing a lot of time with your tent

partners especially if we are waiting out bad weather. Having good manners and hygiene would be

important. Everyone must learn patience and relax! At high camps tou could be paired up with a

person of a different gender and hence you could be required to give even more private time & space

to your tent mate.

15-20 days on the mountain would be very demanding but high motivation can overcome most of the

difficulties. Waiting out storms and bad weather is quite difficult, especially at high altitude. Everyone

must learn patience and relax!

 

If you are not prepared, you may not be allowed to continue the climb.

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Dates in blue indicate departures guaranteed to go.