Climbing Mentok Kangri for my 60th Birthday

Climbing Mentok Kangri for my 60th Birthday

Christine Pemberton enjoying her morning cuppa on the Rupshu Trek to the base of Mentok Kangri

 

In the summer of August 2013, a few days shy of my 60th birthday, I put a huge tick on my bucket list, as I stood, exhausted and tearful, on the summit of my first “proper” mountain. Summiting Mentok Kangri, all beautiful 6155 metres, was to be one of the defining moments in my life. Yes, it’s true that this defining moment came late in my life, but boy, it was worth waiting for. A moment of such happiness and peace and yes, pride, that even today I can still remember every second of that last exhausting slog to the summit. The exhilaration of being there, with a view to die for, that went on for ever. Unfurling my prayer flags and thanking all the gods in that clear blue sky that I had made it, safely, to the summit. Before setting out on what was to be a life-changing trip with White Magic Adventure to climb Mentok Kangri, I had “climbed” other peaks – Kilimanjaro (twice), Mount Kinabalu, I had been to Everest Base Camp – but these are all trekking peaks. I wanted the real climbing experience. A Delhi friend introduced me to White Magic, and impressed by their cool, low-key professionalism, I signed up. Training for a 6000m+ peak in Delhi, where I live, is far from easy, but Sunil (the friend who opened the White Magic door for me) and I did our best. All through the blisteringly hot summer months in Delhi, when the temperatures hit the 40s, we would put on our full hiking gear - boots, thick socks, 6 kg rucksacks, and go for 20km walks in our local park. To be honest, it’s a miracle we weren't both arrested for being completely crazy! Round and round we would tramp, hot and conscious of the bemused looks of the other folk in the park. And as we walked, we tested out GPS’s, we tested Sunil’s GoPro, we tested our hydration systems, we tried out different snacks and drinks - all part of our training for the climb that awaited us.The WM folk also gave us exhaustive kit lists and suggested exercises and training we should do, and so by the time we all met up in Leh in late July for a few days pre-climb acclimatization, I felt less apprehensive than I expected.  

Ashok Mahadevan and Sunil Nehru goofing around with the snowboots while kitting up

 

And then we were fitted out with our climbing boots and belts, and the nervousness started all over again. How on earth would I perform at altitude with all this gear? Would I remember how to clip onto a fixed line? Was I going to make a complete fool of myself?   On the Rupshu Trek from Tsokar to Tsomoriri as acclimatization before climbing Mentok Kangri We had a lovely long trek to reach base camp for our climb, and as the days went by, and we slowly gained altitude - acclimatizing slowly is the key – we all settled into the happy routine of camping and walking and falling asleep in the quiet, fresh air, and waking up to the bluest sky imaginable every morning. I absolutely love camping, and to sit with a bowl of porridge on a crisp chilly morning, gazing up at the peaks around camp…well, it doesn't get much better. We had a fabulous crew with us - porters, a cook who deserves a medal for producing such amazing food at altitude, horsemen with our baggage ponies. Guides to help and cajole us. It’s only when you witness first hand an expedition like this, that you fully realize the meaning of the words “team work.”  

Our summit camp on Mentok Kangri at 5813 m

 

Once we started climbing Mentok Kangri, working our way from Base to Intermediate and onto High Camp, we were a smaller group - the trekkers and a couple of other souls who fell ill – leaving us. As we climbed ever higher, the terrain became harsher and the summit overshadowed every moment of my days, and many hours of my nights. It’s difficult to sleep at altitude, and as I lay dozing in my sleeping bag I could think of nothing else other than that peak awaiting me. We had practiced using the fixed lines set up by our unbelievably wonderful climbing crew, but all the same, when the actual moment came it was nerve-wracking. It was also exhausting. There is no point pretending that I skipped my way to the summit. No way. I slogged and huffed and puffed and was almost dragged up those last few metres by my ever smiling, ever patient, endlessly kind guide. And I’ll tell you one thing for free – yes, it was exhausting, yes, that final slope seemed endless, but deep down, never for one second, did I think of turning back.  

Christine ascending fixed lines on the ice wall to access the rocky summit ridge of Mentok Kangri

 

When I staggered onto the summit to the cheers and hugs of the others who were already there it was – oh, how to express it without gushing too much - it was fabulous, emotional (I am getting misty eyed just writing this…) and it was deeply spiritual. Mentok Kangri was the first step on a late journey of discovery. But what a journey! And what a grand way to turn 60!   Christine Pemberton with the cheering WhiteMagic crew at the Summit of Mentok Kangri    Photo Credits: Kuntal Joisher & Christine WhiteMagic Commentary: Christine Pemberton, one of our most loved clients is a senior citizen who took up climbing and marathon running as part of her Turning 60 Bucket List. Christine and her Indian husband have retired permanently to India, after decades of globe trotting, and she is now busy exploring the Himalaya with us on climbing trips. She is an avid writer and photographer and maintains a blog of her own called Delhi Diary where she documents in her own words - "DAILY LIFE IN INDIA. TRAVELS. AND WHATEVER ELSE CATCHES MY EYE".

Christine Pemberton on the summit of Mentok Kangri, Ladakh

 

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